One dead burner on a four-burner range changes how a whole family eats. Call our referral line and we route you to an independent stove pro near Columbus who works on gas, electric coil, smooth-top and induction cooktops.
Stove problems look simple from the kitchen and often are not. That is why we route your call to independent pros who spend their days on burners, igniters, switches and glass tops.
Every contractor we connect you with runs their own licensed, insured business. Gas work on a range touches a supply line, so ask the pro about their gas certification for your area before work starts.
After testing, the technician writes out a quote that names the part and the labor before anything gets replaced. You decide whether to go ahead.
Our dispatchers look for the nearest pro with an opening around Columbus. Same-day visits are common when a local technician has room on the schedule, and we tell you the arrival window on the call.
Expect a manometer, a digital multimeter, an orifice set, and tech sheets for slide-in, freestanding and pro-style ranges. The right tools mean the first visit is usually the one that gets the burner going again.
We hear from people with forty-year-old coil ranges and from people with brand-new induction cooktops. Different machines, same goal: get the burners working and safe again, without paying for guesswork.
Tell the dispatcher the brand, whether it runs on natural gas, propane or electricity, and exactly which burner misbehaves. That short description helps the pro bring the right igniter, element or valve on the first trip.
These are the cooktop faults that fill our phone log. If yours is not listed, call anyway; the dispatcher will match you with a pro who knows that model.
Constant clicking with the knob turned off often means a spill soaked the switch harness under the knobs. No spark at all on every burner points the pro toward the spark module or its power feed.
A healthy flame is crisp and blue. Yellow tips, lazy flames or flames that lift off the ports point to clogged burner ports, a misaligned burner cap, a dirty orifice or a regulator problem. The pro clears the ports, reseats the cap and head, and checks pressure with a manometer.
When a coil burner stays cold, the culprit is usually the element, the receptacle block it plugs into, or the infinite switch behind the knob. A scorched or melted receptacle has to be replaced along with its wiring terminals, or the new coil will fail too.
Glass ceramic cooktops hide radiant elements and a limiter under the surface. A zone that stays dark, a hot-surface light that never goes out, or a cracked or crazed top all need a pro, and a cracked top should not be used until it is replaced.
Blinking codes, a zone that will not detect the pan, or a cooktop that shuts down mid-boil are classic induction calls. The technician checks the cooling fan, generator board and coil connections with the service manual open.
A knob that spins without turning the valve, a valve stem that sticks, or a move from natural gas to propane all land in this group. The tech can swap orifices for the new fuel, adjust the regulator, and fit an anti-tip bracket on slide-in and freestanding units.
This table is not a substitute for a diagnosis, but it helps you describe the problem clearly to our dispatcher.
| Symptom | Common cause | What the tech checks |
|---|---|---|
| Clicking that will not stop | Wet or shorted valve switch, cracked igniter | Switch continuity, harness, igniter gap |
| No spark on any burner | Spark module or power supply | Module output and incoming voltage |
| Yellow or lifting flame | Clogged ports, wrong orifice, pressure off | Ports, cap seating, manometer reading |
| Coil only heats on high | Failed infinite switch | Switch cycling with a multimeter |
| Smooth-top zone stays cold | Radiant element or limiter open | Element and limiter resistance |
| Induction error code | Cookware, fan or power board | Code lookup, fan, board voltages |
No forms, no waiting for an email. Here is what happens after you dial our dispatch line.
One phone call starts everything. Tell us what the cooktop is doing, and we look for a nearby pro with time on the schedule.
A local pro heads your way with cooktop parts on board. The dispatcher tells you the arrival window before you hang up.
After testing, you get a plain explanation and a written quote from the technician. You decide whether the fix makes sense for your range.
Once the part is in, the technician lights or powers every burner, checks flame or heat on each setting, and leak-tests any gas fitting that was opened.
A careful pro pulls the cooktop or lifts the top before guessing. On gas units they check pressure at the manifold; on electric units they read voltage at the switch and resistance at the element. That is how a cheap igniter does not turn into an expensive control board by mistake.
Call now and we will look for a local stove pro with an opening.
The igniter on our gas range would not quit clicking after a boil-over. The pro pulled the knobs, traced it to one wet switch under the panel, replaced it and tested every burner before he left.
A tenant called me about a coil burner that sparked when it was plugged in. The pro found the burner block had cooked itself, swapped the block and the element, and explained why both had to go together.
The induction top flashed a code every time I boiled water. The pro ruled out my cookware, then found a seized cooling fan under the glass. Simple fix once someone actually opened it up.
We moved into a house with propane and brought our natural gas range. The dispatcher found a pro who converted it the next morning, swapped every orifice, flipped the regulator and checked the flames burner by burner. He also put in the anti-tip bracket the old owners never installed.
Nonstop clicking usually means moisture or grease has reached a valve switch or igniter, so the spark module thinks a burner is still asking for a spark. Sometimes drying it out helps, but a shorted switch needs replacing.
A yellow or orange flame means incomplete combustion, which can create soot and carbon monoxide. Common causes are clogged ports, a cap that sits crooked, or the wrong orifice for your fuel. Stop using that burner and have a pro check it.
Shut off power at the breaker for an electric range, or close the gas shutoff valve behind a gas range, then call us. A burner stuck on usually means a welded infinite switch, a stuck relay, or a valve that will not seat.
A crack lets liquid reach live parts, so the glass has to be replaced. The technician quotes the new top in writing, and most models allow the glass to be swapped without replacing the whole range.
Yes, in most cases. The conversion involves new orifices sized for propane, a regulator change, and low-flame adjustments on each valve. Ask the technician to leak-test every fitting when the job is done.
Induction only works with magnetic cookware. If a magnet does not stick firmly to the bottom of the pan, the zone will not heat. If your pans pass the magnet test, the technician looks at the coil, sensor and power board next.
Our referral line covers homes, condos, apartments and rental properties in Columbus and the nearby neighborhoods and suburbs. The independent pros we connect you with drive to you, and most carry common igniters, coil elements and switches on the truck.
Landlords and property managers use the line too, since a dead burner in a rental becomes an urgent tenant call fast. Tell the dispatcher who will be home to let the technician in.
Gas, electric or induction: call and we will find a pro near you.
